In autumn, the three kilometres of sandy beach stretching like a vast doormat from the eastern edge of Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort are almost empty of people.

When the tide is out it's a soothing study in watercolours: granite-hued sand is puddled and rippled with water, the sky an icy blue, while mother-of-pearl clouds roll in over the horizon.

It's chilly out there; this might just be the best time of year to fully indulge in all the classic Canadiana that Tigh-Na-Mara offers up: cosy log cabins and suites, gas fireplaces to take the chill off, extra cuddly robes and spa treatments that use local ingredients like seaweed and glacial clay.

It isn't where you might expect to find an internationally renowned master of wine hosting an elegant winemaker's dinner.

And yet, that's just what took place last week in the resort's Cedar Dining Room, when witty, Napa-based master of wine Mark de Vere led a Robert Mondavi dinner -- on his 40th birthday, no less.

As one of the best known names in California winemaking, Robert Mondavi was one of the first to believe that the region could produce "great wines that stand in the company of the great wines of the world," said de Vere. And Mondavi's faith is proved by the quality of the wines poured with dinner.

The 2007 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc was bright and fresh with resort chef Eric Edwards' pretty Island-smoked sockeye salmon terrine with David Woods Goat Cheese and aromatic cedar jelly.

The next course: a creamy local Dungeness crab bisque with a pickled ginger and crab cr?pe purse was lightly blanketed in sweet almond-infused broth, but the beautifully balanced 2006 Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Fum? Blanc partnered it handily.

The mouth-watering 2005 Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Chardonnay was a perfect pairing for the Port Hardy spot prawn ravioli verjus and Chardonnay beurre blanc; while lightly smoked Cowichan duck breast with housemade duck sausage, candy striped beets and huckleberry jus met its match in the cherry, earthy flavours of the 2007 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Pinot Noir.

The highlight of the meal came when we were able to compare the 1999 and the 2005 vintages of the Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, alongside roasted Dawson Creek elk rack with brussels sprouts, chanterelles and a cabernet reduction.

It is the Cab, says de Vere -- who is one of only 21 masters of wine in North America -- that make the most convincing argument that Mondavi's vision has been fulfilled.

For more information about Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort and Conference Centre, visit www.tigh-na-mara.com.

For more information about Robert Mondavi wines, visit www.robertmondaviwinery.com.

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From now until mid-December you'll "Dine Right, Sleep Tight" at Parksville and Qualicum Beach resorts. According to a recent press release, visitors can enjoy savings from luxury resorts and restaurants such as Pacific Shores, The Beach Club and Tigh Na Mara Seaside Spa and Resort. Visitors can get three-course meals for $29 at The Landing, the Pacific Prime Steak and Chop Restaurant and The Creek House, as well as a two-night luxury stay for as little as $149.

Local community events and craft fairs exude small town ambiance and Christmas spirit, as well as offering great gift ideas. Some upcoming events include the Qualicum Beach Moonlight Madness (Nov. 19), craft fairs, the Santa Claus Parade (Dec. 4) and the Festival of Trees (Dec. 7-18).

For more information visit the Specials Page on www.VisitParksvilleQualicumBeach.com.

dlancaster@nsnews.com